Wine region · Spain

Rioja: old bodegas and hilltop towns

In Rioja, old bodegas smell of American oak and damp stone, with long tunnels of barrels and bottles in black mould. Above ground, Laguardia's walls stand on a ridge over the vines, and modern wineries make bold shapes against the Sierra de Cantabria. In the evening, Logroño's tapas streets fill with people.

Autumn-coloured vines along a dirt track near Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa
Vineyard near Laguardia, Rioja Alavesa · Basotxerri · CC BY-SA 4.0

The lie of the land

Rioja follows the Ebro valley across three Spanish regions. The sub-zones are Rioja Alta around Haro, Rioja Alavesa in the Basque Country around Laguardia, and Rioja Oriental to the east. Haro has a famous "Barrio de la Estación", a cluster of historic bodegas built around the railway station in the nineteenth century. Laguardia is a walled hilltop town with cellars carved beneath its streets. Logroño, the capital of La Rioja, is known for its pinchos bars on Calle Laurel and nearby streets.

Where to base yourself

Logroño for food, nightlife and transport. Haro for walk-to bodegas. Laguardia for beauty and quiet.

A good day here

Start with a morning visit at a historic bodega, then an afternoon at a modern one for contrast. Lunch is late in Spain, often around 2pm or later. In the evening, go out for pinchos: one small plate and one glass at each bar.

San Sebastián is close enough to pair with Rioja. See our San Sebastián pintxos walk.

Want this trip planned for you?

Tell us the dates, the wines you love and how you like to travel. Our trip planners will suggest a tailor-made route with drivers, trains and tasting bookings arranged, so nobody in your group has to drive.

Start a tailor-made enquiry

Quick answers

Can I visit Rioja bodegas without a car?
Yes, especially in Haro, where several historic bodegas are a short walk from the railway station. For Laguardia, use a tour or a driver.
What time do Spanish winery tours run?
Usually mornings and late afternoons, with a long lunch break. Check each bodega's schedule.

Official sources to check before booking

Keep exploring

A bar counter in San Sebastián covered with plates of pintxosFood walk · Basque CountrySan Sebastián pintxos walk: the Parte Vieja and GrosOne bite, one glass, next bar. The Basque art of the evening crawl.Terraced vineyards covering the hills of the Douro Valley in golden lightWine region · PortugalThe Douro: terraces, port and a river railwayHand-built terraces above a slow river. Port lodges in Porto and a train that follows the water.The village of Pinhão on the Douro river, with terraced hills rising behindGuide · Getting aroundHow to taste without driving: drivers, tours and trainsThe non-negotiable rule of tasting trips, and the easy ways to follow it.