San Sebastián pintxos walk: the Parte Vieja and Gros

The walk

Start on the beach. Walk the promenade along La Concha bay at golden hour, then turn into the Parte Vieja (Old Town). Its narrow grid of streets has one of the highest densities of bars in Europe.

Cross the river to Gros. This neighbourhood by the surf beach of Zurriola is a little less touristy, with its own excellent bars.

Visit the market. In the morning, La Bretxa market in the Old Town shows you the fish, peppers and cheese that end up on the counters.

How pintxos bars work

• Cold pintxos sit on the counter. Ask the bar staff, or take a plate if that is the custom in that bar.
• Hot pintxos are often cooked to order from a chalkboard menu. These are frequently the best things in the bar.
• Order a zurito (a small beer), a txakoli (a crisp local white wine, poured from a height) or a glass of Rioja.
• Pay at the end. Keep track of what you had, and staff will ask.
• Have one or two pintxos per bar, then move on. That is the point.

Wine country from San Sebastián

Rioja is roughly 1¾–2 hours away by road, which makes it a long day trip or, better, an overnight stay. Txakoli vineyards on the coast near Getaria are much closer. Go with a tour or a driver.