Food walk · Italy
Bologna food walk: porticoes, pasta and the old market
Bologna is nicknamed "la grassa", the fat one, and it wears that name proudly. Under its miles of porticoes you will find windows of fresh tortellini, legs of prosciutto hanging over counters, and wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano stacked like drums.
The walk
Start at Piazza Maggiore and step into the Quadrilatero, the old market district just east of the square. Its narrow lanes, including Via Pescherie Vecchie, are lined with greengrocers, fishmongers, delis and tiny bars.
Walk under the porticoes. Bologna's porticoes are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so you can walk much of the city under cover. Head towards the Two Towers and the university quarter for cheaper, student-friendly places.
Visit an indoor market. Bologna has covered markets where you can graze at counters. Check opening times, as some close on Sundays.
End with an aperitivo. In the early evening, a glass of Lambrusco or Pignoletto often comes with small bites.
What to taste
- Tagliatelle al ragù. In Bologna, ragù goes with tagliatelle, not spaghetti.
- Tortellini in brodo (in broth), and tortelloni with ricotta and butter.
- Mortadella, Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano.
- Lambrusco, the sparkling red of Emilia.
Wine country from Bologna
High-speed trains reach Florence in roughly 35–40 minutes, which makes Bologna an easy start for a trip to Tuscany. Piedmont is around three hours away by train, via Turin or Milan.
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