The Mosel loops so tightly that you can sometimes see the same river three times from one hilltop. Its vineyards climb slopes of blue and grey slate, some of them among the steepest in the world. The Rieslings are light, bright and full of stone fruit. In the villages below, wine taverns put tables out on the riverbank.
The German Mosel runs from the Luxembourg border near Trier to the Rhine at Koblenz. The Middle Mosel, around Bernkastel-Kues, Piesport, Graach and Wehlen, is the classic heart of the region. The Lower Mosel, towards Koblenz, has dramatic terraces and Cochem with its hilltop castle. The tributaries Saar and Ruwer near Trier make some of the finest, most delicate wines.
Where to base yourself
Bernkastel-Kues for the Middle Mosel, with a pretty market square and many family wineries nearby. Traben-Trarbach for Art Nouveau architecture and a quieter stay. Cochem for the lower river and easy rail access.
How tastings work
Many Mosel wineries are family-run and offer tastings at their cellar door (Weinprobe), sometimes with a set opening time and sometimes by arrangement. Wine taverns (Straußwirtschaften) open seasonally and serve the family's own wine with simple food. It is a relaxed region, but still email ahead, especially for well-known estates and group visits.
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