Bordeaux: châteaux, both banks and a beautiful city

The lie of the land

The Médoc runs north of the city along the Gironde estuary, through Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe. Cabernet Sauvignon dominates here, on gravel soils. Saint-Émilion and Pomerol sit east of the Dordogne on the Right Bank, where Merlot leads. Graves and Pessac-Léognan start right at the city's southern edge. Sauternes is known for its sweet wines, and Entre-Deux-Mers for its fresh whites.

The medieval village and vineyards of Saint-Émilion are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Jurisdiction of Saint-Émilion. Its limestone streets, underground church and quarry cellars make it the most walkable wine village in Bordeaux.

Where to base yourself

The city of Bordeaux itself is the best base for a first trip. It has great food and wine bars, trams, and La Cité du Vin, a wine museum on the river. It is also a short train ride from Saint-Émilion, where you could spend a night among the vines.

A good day here

Take a morning visit at one château, then lunch in a village. In the afternoon, visit a smaller family estate for contrast. Large classified châteaux often run polished, scheduled tours. Smaller properties may give you more time with the people who make the wine.